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The Best Slip On Rocker Panels

How To Install Slip on Rockers, 2001 Silverado

After evaluating and analyzing in detail more than 9,088 customer satisfaction about Best Slip On Rocker Panels in May 2022, we have come up with the top 10 items you may be interested in Slip On Rocker Panels. We have ranked the best brands from Artificial Intelligent and Big Data.

The Best Slip On Rocker Panels of May 2022 – Reviews and Comparison

Rank No. #1
Motor City Sheet Metal - Compatible With 1999-2007 Silverado 4 Door Crew Cab Outer Rocker Panel Pair
  • Made In The USA
  • Non OEM Part
  • Free Shipping
  • Motor City Sheet Metal - Compatible With 1999-2007 Silverado 4 Door Crew Cab Outer Rocker Panel Pair
Rank No. #2
Golden Star Auto RP16-991R Slip On Rocker Panel
  • 1999-2007 Silverado/Sierra 2&3-Door
  • Slip-On Style
  • Right/Passenger Side
Rank No. #3
  • Made In The USA
  • Made From American Steel
  • 19 Gauge Steel
Rank No. #4
Extended Cab Lower Slip-On Metal Rocker Panels for 1999-2007 Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra
  • Fitment:1999-2007 Silverado 4 door extended cab, 1999-2007 Sierra 4 door extended cab
  • Made of high quality steel ,100% brand new,19" High
  • Direct replace your original Rocker Panels.
  • Package Included: Pair of Rocker Panels. If you need the matched corners , you can search for the ASIN B07HK721LF
  • Reference part number: 0856-001, 0856-002
Rank No. #5
99-06 Chevy Silverado GMC Sierra Extended Cab Lower Slip On Metal Rocker Panels
  • Made from 20ga. Galvanized Steel
  • OE Quality and Fit
  • Fits 99-06 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Extended Cab Trucks
  • Each Rocker Panel Measures 73 x 6 x 1
  • Each Rocker Panel Weighs 6 lbs.
Rank No. #6
Motor City Sheet Metal -Compatible With : 2002-2007 Jeep Liberty Slip-on Rocker Panel 4 Door Pair
  • Made In The USA
  • Non OEM Part
  • Free Shipping
  • Motor City Sheet Metal -Compatible With : 2002-2007 Jeep Liberty Slip-on Rocker Panel 4 Door Pair
Rank No. #7
Bushwacker 14064 Black Trail Armor Rocker Panel & Sill Plate Covers for 2019 Ram 1500 Classic, 2009-2018 Ram 1500, 2009-2021 Ram 2500/3500 with Crew Cab, Pair
  • Covers the door sill and rocker area under doors, providing protection from road debris and scratches
  • Hides unsightly pinch welds, existing scratches and rust damage
  • Made from our proprietary Dura-Flex 2000 TPO material with an OE-Style matte black textured finish
  • No drill design installs with clips and 3M automotive grade adhesive. Prop 65-Yes
  • Proudly made in the USA and backed by a Limited Lifetime
Rank No. #8
Extended Cab Lower Slip-On Metal Rocker Panels and Cab Corners (Pair) for 1999-2007 Silverado and Sierra 4 Door Extended Cab trucks 2 Packages
  • Fitment:1999-2007 Silverado 4 door extended cab, 1999-2007 Sierra 4 door extended cab
  • Made of high quality steel ,100% brand new. 2 Packages
  • Direct replace your original cab corners and rocker panels.
  • Reference part number: 0856-001, 0856-002, 0856-115,0856-116. If you only need rocker panels, you can search for the ASIN B07HKSY2R4. If you only need cab corners, you can search for the ASIN B07HK721LF.
  • Package Included: Pair of Rocker Panels and Left & Right Cab Corners. NOTE:You will get 2 packages.
Rank No. #9
Golden Star Auto RP16-88SR Slip On Rocker Panel
  • 1988-2002 GM C/K Series
  • Slip-On Style
  • Passenger Side
Rank No. #10
Motor City Sheet Metal - Compatible With 1994-2002 Dodge Ram 4 Door Quad Cab Outer Rocker Panel Pair
  • Made In The USA
  • Non OEM Part
  • Free Shipping
  • Motor City Sheet Metal - Compatible With 1994-2002 Dodge Ram 4 Door Quad Cab Outer Rocker Panel Pair

Last update on 2021-07-29 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

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In order to pass Pennsylvania state inspection, I needed to replace the rusted out rockers on my 2001 Chevy Silverado.

These are odd rockers.

In that the lower pinch weld is horizontal rather than vertical.

Like most other vehicles of that era, an outfit called classic to current fabrications supplies a pair of slip, 1 replacements for just 67 57 cents through Amazon.

These are 78 inches long and made to fit all cab configurations for my standard cab.

I needed to cut them to length these can be attached by welding or by using steel countersunk pop rivets.

I need to emphasize to use steel rivets using aluminum rivets will create a battery and quickly rust to steal.

The first step was to cut out the rusted metal.

An angle grinder with a metal cutting blade, did a great job.

I don’t think I use more than five out of the ten disk pack.

I used a pry bar on hammer to remove the remaining material.

From the pinch weld I switched to 80 grit flap disc, which were purchased from Amazon.

They came in a package of 10 for just $ 17.90 and I didn’t use more than five on the entire project.

That means both sides.

These were used to clean up the remaining rust the best I could plus clean the paint from the areas I was going to weld to.

It is important not to grind away any more metal than necessary, knowing that the thinner, the metal, the harder it would be to weld notice that I have covered the door opening to protect the interior from being coated with dust.

Next, I sprayed the rusted areas with rust-oleum paint a bull, rust converter.

This is basically the same type of product.

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As the old naval jelly was.

I had considered extending a rocker over the rust on the rear cab corner.

However, I found that I would not get a good fit plus there probably wasn’t enough metal left to weld to.

I wanted a welder for a long time, so this project gave me the excuse to purchase one, the welder plus the gloves and a one-year damage replacement plan, cost 148 dollars and 96 cents from Northern Tool.

On top of this, I added a shield for $ 29.

If I had to do over, I would have spent a little more money for an automatic one from the research I did before the purchase.

I found the wire that comes with the welder is not the best, so I gave myself a little more advantage and purchased a spool of lincoln electric wire for 1195.

This brings my total welding supplies to 188 dollars in 96 cents.

Since I hadn’t had a welder in my hands for over 25 years.

I knew some practice was needed, plus it is always best to do some testing before welding anything.

I cut two pieces from the waste end of the new rocker I needed to find the best size for the plug weld holes.

So I drilled the top piece with many holes from 1/4 inch to 5/16 inch, thus allowing me to determine what is best for the 18 gauge metal and the point o3o flux core wire, using the same process.

Here I intended to use on the truck I secured.

The top these three use of text washer sheet metal screws – these are number ten by half inch.

I simply drilled an eighth inch hole through several of the plug weld holes and screwed them together.

Here is my finished test piece.

The rusted-out pinch weld area needed to be fixed so that I had something to weld to so I cut a length of metal from the scrap end of the new rocker hammered it into an angle and drilled spot weld holes.

The holes were then taped over on the back side before undercoating.

My fear was that if I didn’t keep the metal around the holes clean that the undercoating would contaminate the weld, the piece was clamped into position.

I marked the weld location and then using 80 grit paper.

I removed the undercoating I needed bare metal in order for the welder to strike a proper arc piece was clamped back into position and welded welds were cleaned and ground smooth.

A liberal coat of under coating was applied.

I used mineral spirits and a green pad to clean the bare metal.

Next came a code of self-etching primer.

This stuff is really important for good paint adhesion after the primer dried.

I applied a liberal coat of undercoating to the backside.

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After allowing the undercoating to thoroughly dry on the backside using a ruler, I drew a straight line across the top edge and then marked off every two inches each mark was then Center punched.

I piloted the holes with an eighth inch bit then followed up, as I remember it, with a nine thirty second inch bit.

I think the quarter inch weld hole was too small and anything over five sixteenths is too large using the 80 grit flap disc.

I then smoothed off the grille Spurs on reverse side plus a little of the undercoating.

Then I applied some edging primer to the bare spots, as I did with the test panel.

I drilled 1/8 inch holes through the plug weld hole and attached a rocker using number 10 sheetmetal screws with hex washer heads.

I spaced the screws out just enough to give me a good fit.

If attached in Morocco using steel pop rivets, you would be drilling 1/8 inch holes and, following up with the countersink bit, I probably wouldn’t bother using a countersink rivet.

On the pinch weld again, I can’t emphasize enough the importance of using a steel rivet on a pinch weld, I used a combination of both screws and rivets don’t be afraid to persuade the metal to fit each time before welding a plug.

I clip off the end of the wire so that it is sharp and makes good contact on the first pull of the trigger.

You may question why I have a common working glove on my right hand and a welding one on my left.

Using a common glove makes it easier to move the torch around.

The welding glove is closest to the arc and used as a prop taking the brunt of the abuse.

I triggered the torch quite a bit to help eliminate burn through the screws are removed.

These holes are a bit more difficult to fill because you are already burned through.

So, as you can see, the practice panel was very important in helping me learn how to control the torch finishing up.

I ground the weld smooth and applied etching primer.

Next, there was a bead of paintable caulk applied and then another coat of primer.

The pinch welds were sprayed both top and bottom with a liberal coating of undercoating.

After all, this dries we’re ready for the pain

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